Hanoi to Lao Cai, Sapa
I splashed out on a 4 berth cabin all to myself for the 8 hour journey on the Fanxipan Express overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai in Sapa, close to the northern border with China.
With images of the Orient Express in my head, I had high expectations and good first impressions for my first sleeper train experience. However my illusions were quickly shattered as the train left the station. I soon realised the night would be a challenge for all my senses. Firstly there was the persistent screeching of the train wheels on the metal tracks, which could only be compared to the sound nails on a blackboard. The carriage rattled, swayed & jolted violently as it picked up speed, as opposed to the gentle rocking of modern trains. Finally the intense humidity left me breathless and wheezing, whilst I tried to sleep with a damp pillow & duvet.
As dawn broke I alighted the train in Lao Cai at 5am, finding a cafe open for coffee. Sitting there sleep deprived, I willed myself not to put my head on the table top, and catch a few winks, but that was short lived as it was Market Day in Sapa.
Crowds of locals of all ages dressed in their vibrant traditional clothing, started to arrive to get their weekly provisions. Some were here for much larger investment pieces at the Buffalo market.
A family affair. Everyone comes to market
Before the origins of Covid had ever put a question mark over the validity of wet markets, I freely wandered between stalls selling everything from local embroidery, jewellery, spices, vegetables. To the allyways filled with the pungent odour of dried fish, and beyond to the butchers.
No need for food labels - when the animal head helps to distinguish the meat.
Live animals are traded by weight. Some trussed up and ready to be driven home dangling from the scooter handlebars. Others got a more luxurious ride going pillion.
Counter to Yard
Quite possibly the original Deliveroo service long before the app made it's way to the West?
The vibrancy of the local traditional dress of the traditional clothing and modern footwear of the H’mong and Red Dao women brought so much colour and contrast to this patch of land.
Once the harvest is finished, everyone heads to the buffalo market, meaning the timing of my trip allowed me to see this event in full flow. Such a vital piece of agricultural equipment, the family buffalo is essential helping in maintaining the paddy fields and any other chore required.
Barber shop and drinks for the men, whilst the women get down to shopping.
Next Up.....my hike through the Paddy Fields, to spend time with the Red Dao and Black Hmong tribes.